Reviews by Antonio Galloni of VINOUS
Aug 25th, 2022
The Ojai Vineyard
It’s always fascinating to taste with Adam Tolmach and Fabien Castel, as they both have so much insight to offer on Santa Barbra. This year’s tasting was especially significant as it includes the first wines from the Ojai Estate after it was completely replanted a few years ago following a vicious outbreak of Pierce’s disease. The wines are made from new varieties created specifically to be resistant to Pierce’s disease. They are essentially crosses of vitis vinifera varieties with small amounts of vitis arizonica. The result is a whole new family of grapes. It will be absolutely fascinating to follow the evolution of these varieties, as they are entirely new, and the body of practical knowledge that surrounds them is basically being created now. There’s also plenty to admire in the wines that have made up the core of this portfolio for years. In particular, the 2019 Syrahs are very fine.
From Santa Barbara: A Rare Bright Spot for California in 2020 (Aug 2022) by Antonio Galloni
2019 Syrah Solomon Hills Special Bottling
95
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034
The 2019 Syrah Solomon Hills Special Bottling is a selection of two barrels from Ojai’s tiny half acre in this well-known Santa Maria site. It’s a great example of the Ojai style at its finest. Rich, deep and layered, the 2019 offers a beguiling mix of intense fruit allied to strong mineral and savory accents. Readers who can find it should not hesitate.
95
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034
The 2019 Syrah Duvarita Vineyard is another standout from Ojai. Dense and layered, the Duvarita Syrah packs quite a punch. Blue/purplish fruit, licorice, menthol and lavender are all dialed up. The. 2019 was done with fully destemmed fruit, and that comes through in its sheer density and purity of the fruit. This is a superb showing.
2020 Chardonnay Special Bottling Puerta del Mar
95
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2030
The 2020 Chardonnay Special Bottling Puerta del Mar is gorgeous. The 2020 offers up hints of lemon confit, white flowers, mint and pear that all take shape in this creamy, layered Chardonnay. The 2020 spent 16 months in barrel, so on the longer side.
2019 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard
94
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034
The 2019 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard is deep, fleshy and expressive, yet retains the energy that is such a signature of Adam Tolmach’s wines. Blue/purplish fruit, black pepper, lavender, spice and tobacco fill out the layers nicely. This mid-weight, wonderfully vibrant Syrah bristles with energy and classicism from the long, cool growing season. A closing flourish of savory accents rounds things out in style.
94
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2028
The 2016 Apricots is an unusual blend of Sangiovese and Barbera that results in a truly fabulous wine. Sumptuous dark cherry, plum, tobacco, licorice and spice come together with a bit of coaxing. Time in bottle has softened the contours and released tons of aromatic presence. The 2016 is beautifully rendered, and an absolute delight to taste.
94
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034
The 2019 Syrah Roll Ranch is absolutely gorgeous. Hints of blood orange, spice, incense, mint, rose petal and sweet red berry infuse the 2019 with striking exoticism. The 60% whole clusters works so well in the Roll Ranch. This deceptively mid-weight Syrah is packed with flavor and character.
2019 Pinot Noir Fe Ciega Vineyard Special Bottling
94
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034
The 2019 Pinot Noir Fe Ciega Vineyard Special Bottling is a selection of three barrels in the cellar selected prior to blending the various lots for two Fe Ciega Pinots. It shows more power and depth than the regular bottling, partly the result of a touch more new oak. Delicate and elegant, with plenty of depth and tons of site character, the Special Bottling Fe Ciega Pinot has a ton to offer.
2020 Pinot Noir Fe Ciega Vineyard
93
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034
The 2020 Pinot Noir Fe Ciega Vineyard is a standout. It offers up plenty of exotic dark cherry, blood orange, mulling spice, tobacco and leather notes, with strong savory overtones that develop with a bit of time in the glass. Deep, potent and beautifully layered, the Fe Ciega is compelling.
93
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
The 2021 White Estate is a blend of 60% Ambulo Blanc and 40% Caminante Blanc, both crosses of vitis vinifera and vitis arizonica created to resist Pierce’s disease. Readers will find a deep, phenolic wine with a good bit of structural depth supporting bright, Sauvignon Blanc-like aromatics. It’s a deeply intriguing, thought provoking white. The structural elements aren’t surprising since some of the red grapes used in the crosses are red. In some ways, the White Estate reminds me of some old-vine Chardonnays I have tasted, but the reality is that these wines require a whole new set reference points, and those will only be possible over time.
92
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2032
The 2019 Syrah John Sebastiano is elegant, delicate and restrained, especially for this site. There is good persistence in the red/purplish fruit, spice and whole cluster notes. Ideally I would like to see more mid-palate depth to balance the aromatics, as the 2019 feels a bit light.
92
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
The 2019 Barbera Rich Vineyard is terrific, and also one of the highlights in this range from Ojai. Bright acids run through a core of Barbera fruit. The 75% whole clusters are not especially evident. All the elements are so well balanced. Blood orange, herbs and sweet berry fruit linger.
2020 Pinot Noir Kessler Haak Vineyard
91
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2030
The 2020 Pinot Noir Kessler Haak Vineyard is an interesting wine. The whole clusters add savoriness and nuance, but there is less freshness than typical, which is not entirely surprising for the year. Sage, mint, tobacco and rose petal open with a bit of coaxing. My sense is that the 2020 is still coming together, as the balance is a bit awkward. In particular, the stem component is a bit prominent.
2021 Riesling Kick On Dessert Wine
90
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2027
The 2021 Riesling Kick On Dessert Wine is done with equal parts late harvested and botrytised fruit. It wafts from the glass with scents of pear, tangerine oil, mint, spice, ginger and dried flowers. This ethereal, gracious dessert wine is terrific. The 210 grams per liter of sugar is lower than usual, but not at all evident because the acids are so bright.
90
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2030
The 2020 Red Estate is 100% Paesante Noir, one of the new family of grape varieties that have been created to be resistant to Pierce’s disease through the crossing of Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah with a small amount of vitis arizonica. Dense and powerful, with burly tannins, the 2020 offers up plenty of savory, earthy, game, leather and tobacco flavors, while fruit is more in the background. It’s hard to draw conclusions from a single wine, but naturally, it will be interesting to see where this wine goes in future vintages.
2020 Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyard
90
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2028
The 2020 Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyard is delicate, floral and nicely lifted. Hints of lemon peel, savory herbs and mint are nicely delineated. In this tasting, the Bien Nacido comes across as a bit austere and lacking the mid-palate textural and flavor profile that are typical of this site. The 2020 is an attractive wine, but it feels a bit skeletal today.
2020 Pinot Noir Puerta del Mar
90
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2030
The 2020 Pinot Noir Puerta del Mar is bright and nicely lifted. Sweet red berry fruit, mint, dried leather, tobacco and spice all pulse through this attractive, mid-weight Pinot Noir from Ojai. The 2020 is beautifully balanced for a year in which late season heat spikes caused all sorts of headaches at harvest.
2020 Grenache John Sebastiano Vineyard
90
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2030
The 2020 Grenache John Sebastiano Vineyard is a potent, tannic wine, its medium-bodied structure notwithstanding. Readers will want to cellar the 2020 as it is pretty austere right now. I don’t see much varietal character either. Perhaps these elements will come together in time. We will see.
2021 Sauvignon Blanc McGinley Vineyard
89
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2025
The 2021 Sauvignon Blanc McGinley Vineyard is bright and finely sculpted, with lovely energy and plenty of nuance. Lemon peel, chalk, mint and white pepper are nicely delineated in this crisp, understated Sauvignon from Ojai.
