California, Santa Barbara County: The Good News Keeps Coming

This was another massive tasting with Ojai’s Adam Tolmach and assistant winemaker Fabien Castel. They have recently opened a new tasting room in the town of Ojai (the estate is located just outside the town) and this has given them the ability to experiment more with harvest dates and winemaking, as they can sell these small production releases more easily via a tasting room than via distribution. That has resulted in a number of special/experimental bottlings based off harvest dates/elevage, so it is incredibly educational to taste through the lineup. While Adam didn’t present any 2014s, he told me that they had 40% of the grapes brought in before September 1. I struggle to understand these early pick dates, but this team does it with the best of them. As to the 2013s, Adam commented that the wines showed well earlier than the 2012s and it was a warm, generous and easy vintage. I think these are a step up over the 2012s.

2013 Chardonnay Bien Nacido-91
Santa Maria Valley
Bottled early in August 2014, the 2013 Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyard offers classic orchard fruits, buttered citrus and salty minerality in a medium-bodied, supple, nicely textured package. There’s bright, racy acidity that seems slightly at odds with its forward, rounded texture, yet I suspect it will benefit from a year in bottle, then drink nicely for 4-5 years.

2013 Chardonnay Puerta Del Mar-94
Santa Barbara County
Seeing slightly more new oak and coming from a tiny, frigidly cold vineyard that’s located just outside of the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, the 2013 Chardonnay Puerta del Mar offers lots of stone and orchard fruits, citrus blossom, subtle oak and lots of saltiness to go with a layered, focused and gorgeously pure style on the palate. This is a riveting Chardonnay that does everything right, and I think it’s a fair step up over the 2012. Drink it anytime over the coming 6-7 years.

2013 Chardonnay Solomon Hills-94
Santa Maria Valley
A site that continues to blow me away, the Solomon Hills Vineyard is located in the Santa Maria Valley and is within sight of the Pacific Ocean. Adam’s 2013 Chardonnay Solomon Hills gives up rock-star notes of white peach, honey blossom and white flowers to go with an incredibly pure, layered and balanced feel on the palate. Its fruit, acidity and alcohol and perfectly integrated and this beauty shines on its stunning purity of fruit. It’s another wine I find hard to resist currently, yet will be better next year and shine for 5-7 years at a minimum.

2013 Grenache John Sebastiano-91
Santa Barbara County
Tasting like a high-quality Cotes du Rhone, with exceptional purity of fruit, the 2013 Grenache John Sebastiano Vineyard is the best vintage of this cuvee to date. Giving up ripe, rich notes of raspberries, leather, licorice and wild herbs, with a certain Provencal flair, it’s medium-bodied, elegant and fresh, with a full, rich texture that keeps it easy-drinking and balanced. This rock-solid effort from Adam and team has terrific aromatics, good texture and loads of character. Drink it over the coming 4-5 years.

2013 Grenache Special Bottling John Sebastiano-93
Santa Barbara County
Coming from the last four parcels harvested that had an extra level of ripeness and density, the 2013 Grenache John Sebastiano Vineyard Special Bottling has fabulous intensity in its violet-tinged black and blue fruits, spring flowers, licorice and cracked pepper-driven bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, ripe and rounded, with a mouth filling, vibrant and lively texture, it has solid mid-palate concentration, building tannin and a clean finish. Easily the best Grenache I’ve tasted from this estate, give it a year or two in the cellar and enjoy bottles through 2025.

2013 Pinot Noir-91
Santa Barbara County
Although this is the estate’s entry-level Pinot Noir, don’t let that deter you, as the 2013 Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County is a sensational effort that easily stands up to the single-vineyard releases in 2013. Coming primarily from Kick On Ranch, Solomon Hills and Bien Nacido (which are some of the best sites in California), it offers tons of strawberry, raspberry and sappy flower notions in a pretty, elegant and lightly textured style. Possessing both terrific aromatics and a great texture, enjoy this beauty over the coming 4-5 years.

2013 Pinot Noir Clone 22 Bien Nacido-90
Santa Maria Valley
Coming from the same clone, and the Bien Nacido Vineyard in Santa Maria, the 2013 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Clone 22 saw lots of carbonic maceration and has a Beaujolais style to its black cherry, pepper, raspberry and smoke-laced bouquet. It also saw a lot of whole clusters during fermentation. Adam commented that this was just another exploration into the different styles that are possible in California. Medium-bodied, supple and downright sexy on the palate, with a seamlessness that’s at odds with the rough and tumble bouquet, drink this juicy, interesting and lively effort over the coming 2-4 years.

2013 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido-93
Santa Maria Valley
More classic in style than the Clone 22, the 2013 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard has lots of black raspberry, flowers and crushed-rock nuances as well as a full, layered, beautifully textured feel on the palate. I normally find something masculine and mineral-laced from this vineyard, but this 2013 is all polish and elegance, with rocking purity of fruit. I’d drink it over the coming 4-5 years, but I suspect it will still be delicious at age 10 as well.

2013 Pinot Noir Fe Ciega-92+
Santa Rita Hills
One of more structured and backward Pinot Noirs in the lineup, the 2013 Pinot Noir Fe Ciega comes from a south-facing site on southern side of the Sta. Rita Hills, just off Santa Rosa Road. It has a Burgundian vibe in its darker cherry fruits, pepper, wild herbs and forest floor bouquet. This gives way to a medium-bodied, structure and tannic Pinot Noir that will need another year or two to really round into form. I suspect it will have a decade or more of overall longevity.

2013 Pinot Noir Kick On-95
Santa Barbara County
Much more masculine and muscular than the Puerta del Mar release, the 2013 Pinot Noir Kick On Ranch exhibits lots of wild strawberry, black cherry, crushed violets and distinct minerality to go with a tight, energetic and vibrant feel on the palate. Possessing plenty of acidity and structure, give it a few years in the cellar.

2013 Pinot Noir La Cote-89+
Santa Barbara County
Light ruby in color and the first vintage where Adam got fruit from this cool site located on the western edge of the Sta. Rita Hills, the 2013 Pinot Noir La Cote has lots of rose petal, cherry and watermelon notes to go with ample spice, herbs and earth characteristics on the nose. Nicely textured, supple and with decent depth on the palate, it’s still a little rough around the edges at the moment, and it will be interesting to see how it comes together with another year in bottle.

2013 Pinot Noir Puerta Del Mar-95
Santa Barbara County
A site that Adam first used for Pinot Noir in 2012, the 2013 Pinot Noir Puerta del Mar is an off-the-hook effort that blew me away with its silky, seamless texture. Giving up lots of classic Pinot Noir strawberry, raspberry, rose petal and exotic spice aromas and flavors, it has no hard edges, medium-bodied richness and a terrific finish. It shines more for its elegance and purity than power or richness, but I certainly wanted another glass.

2013 Pinot Noir Solomon Hills-96
Santa Maria Valley
The 2013 Pinot Noir Solomon Hills is the star of the show in 2013 and is possibly the finest Pinot Noir I’ve tasted from this estate. All about its incredibly pure core of fruit, it still stays balanced, seamless and layered, with no hard edges and perfect integration of its fruit, acidity and tannin. Giving up lots of black raspberry, strawberry, Bing cherry and floral notes, this is one Pinot Noir to not miss!

2013 Riesling Kick On-91
Santa Barbara County
An outstanding Riesling, the 2013 Riesling Kick On Ranch was raised in almost all neutral oak and has a scant four grams of residual sugar. Beautifully balanced, with classic lychee nut, green citrus and floral notes, it’s medium-bodied, racy and lively, with its bright acidity nicely integrated. It’s great now, yet I suspect it will have an interesting evolution over the coming 4-5 years as well.

2013 Sangiovese White Hawk-90
Santa Barbara County
Vibrant purple in color, the 2013 Sangiovese White Hawk offers lots of juicy berry fruits, cedary spice and a touch of leather to go with a medium-bodied, juicy, savory feel on the palate. There is a lot to like here, and while it has lots of tannin on the finish, they’re beautifully polished and ripe. Give this food-friendly, elegant and well-made red a year or so in the cellar, and drink it through 2023.

2013 Sauvignon Blanc McGinley-91
Santa Barbara County
In contrast to the Viognier, the 2013 Sauvignon Blanc Mcginley doesn’t go through malolactic fermentation, yet sees a similar elevage in older oak barrel. Possessing a Loire style in its grassy herbs, citrus, white flowers and striking minerality, it’s medium-bodied, racy and even borderline tart on the finish. Possessing fabulous purity of fruit and a clean, dry finish, I’d drink it over the coming couple of years, but certainly wouldn’t be surprised to see it have a long, interesting evolution either.

2012 Syrah Bien Nacido-95
Santa Maria Valley
Young and unevolved, with beautiful creme de cassis, crushed-rock minerality, black pepper, violet and graphite, the 2012 Syrah Bien Nacido is reminiscent of a solid Hermitage from the fame Le Meal lieu-dit in the Northern Rhone. Medium to full-bodied, beautifully proportioned and seamless, with a layered, silky texture and building tannin on the finish, it could use a tad more mid-palate concentration, yet it’s still a brilliant Syrah that does everything right. Drink it anytime over the coming 10-15 years.

2013 Syrah Duvarita-94
Santa Barbara County
From a cool vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills formerly known as Presidio, the 2013 Syrah Duvarita Vineyard has a cool, spicy, peppery feel in its blackberry and blueberry fruit, crushed rock, olive, violet and smoked game-like bouquet. This flows to a medium to full-bodied, supple, beautifully pure and elegant Syrah that has ultra-fine tannin, a full, rich mid-palate and terrific length on the finish. Slightly understated at first, it’s a Syrah that grows on you with time in the glass and it continues to gain depth with air time. As with all of these new releases from Adam, it has the polish and fruit to offer immense pleasure today, yet this should be at its finest from 2017-2027.

2013 Syrah Grenache No So2 John Sebastiano-92
Santa Barbara County
An even split of Syrah and Grenache, the 2013 Syrah Grenache John Sebastiano Vineyard (No So2) is a fruity, supple and rounded red that gives up tons of strawberry, raspberry and even a hint of blueberry on the nose. Bottled with no added sulfites (which is crazy/absolutely ridiculous in my opinion, but buyer beware), it has a big, medium to full-bodied texture, no hard edges, tons of fruit on the mid-palate and sweet tannin on the finish. Given that most reds are consumed within hours of purchase these days, I can’t complain too much with no So2 approach (sure I can, did I mention I think it’s ridiculous?), and it’s certainly showy and delicious out of the gate. However, it needs to drunk up over the coming couple of years at the most. As I commented last year, make sure these are well stored.

2013 Syrah John Sebastiano- 93
Santa Barbara County
The 2013 Syrah John Sebastiano Vineyard is another beautifully pure, polished and rounded Syrah from Adam that gives up the classic Sta. Rita Hills aromas and flavors of black raspberry, olive brine, lavender, licorice and a certain saltiness that’s so common from the region. Completely destemmed and from a windswept vineyard located on the warmer, eastern side of the appellation, this medium to full-bodied Syrah has no hard edges, a sexy, layered texture, solid balance and sweet tannin that come through on the finish. It’s hard to resist already, yet it should continue to impress through 2025.

2012 Syrah Roll Ranch -94
Ventura County
Riper, fleshier, and more hedonistic than the ’11 (but not as much as the differences in the vintage would have you believe), the 2012 Syrah Roll Ranch is a beautiful wine that’s loaded with notions of sweet cassis, blackberries, chocolate, mulled spice and underbrush. Ripe, sexy and opulent, with no hard edges and a great finish, it’s about as voluptuous and textured as Adam’s wines get today. In addition, the purity and polish to the fruit and tannin are exceptional. These traits are present in almost all of the new releases from Adam and Fabien, and while it gives their wines a slightly upfront, easy appeal in their youth, they’ll age beautifully given their harmony and balance. Drink this superb Central Coast Syrah over the coming decade.

2011 Syrah Roll Ranch -94
Ventura County
The 2011 Syrah Roll Ranch is terrific and this warmer site obviously did just fine in this cooler vintage. Rich, concentrated and textured, with lots of ripe currants, chocolate, leather, roasted herbs and meatiness, it’s full-bodied, polished and layered on the palate, with a good mid-palate and sweet tannin. This is a rich, sexy and voluptuous release from this team that will have 10-15 years of longevity.

2012 Syrah White Hawk-92
Santa Barbara County
More rounded, supple and open knit than the darker-colored 2011, the 2012 Syrah White Hawk Vineyard offers fruit-forward notes of marine-like minerality, sweet blueberry, blackberry, leafy herbs and licorice to go with a medium to full-bodied, rounded, ready-to-go feel on the palate. Surprisingly, I find the 2011 to be more compelling, with additional concentration, depth and richness, and I think the big yields of the 2012 vintage show here. Still, this beautiful wine will drink nicely over the coming 5-6+ years.

2011 Syrah White Hawk-94
Santa Barbara County
Adam’s 2011 Syrah White Hawk Vineyard is shockingly good and maybe the best vintage of this cuvee I’ve tasted. Vibrant ruby/purple and opaque colored it offers terrific and classic Syrah notes of black raspberry, ground pepper, olive and a touch of bloodiness on the nose. These flow to a medium to full-bodied Syrah that has exceptional purity of fruit, a balanced, layered mouth feel and a great finish. Already approachable, it still held up nicely over the multiple days I had the bottle open and should evolve gracefully given its balanced, harmonious profile.

2013 Syrah-91
Santa Barbara County
Adam’s entry-level Syrah is the 2013 Syrah Santa Barbara County and it’s a year in, year out sensational value. It’s ruby/purple color is followed by textbook black and blue fruits, violets, salty minerality and cracked pepper-like aromatics. Medium to full-bodied, ripe, textured and seamless, with nicely integrated acidity and a full mid-palate, drink this pure, balanced beauty over the coming 4-5 years.

2013 Viognier Roll Ranch-91
Ventura County
A great Viognier from California, Adam’s 2013 Viognier Roll Ranch comes from a hot terroir located near the estate in Ojai. It offers tons of saltiness in its white peach, citrus and floral aromatics, and this flow to a medium-bodied, juicy, beautifully pure white that has good acidity and a clean, dry finish. Seeing full malo and aging on lees in older French oak, it should drink beautifully for 2-3 years.