The Rhone Report Jeb Dunnuck-May 2010

The Rhone Report

Jeb Dunnuck-May 2010

These wines are not your typical new world Syrahs and show much more structured, firm personalities that warrant cellar time. I‟m a big fan.

2007 Ojai Grenache Thompson Vineyard Red 87
2006 Ojai Syrah Melville Vineyard Red 93
2006 Ojai Syrah Presidio Vineyard Red 94
2006 Ojai Syrah Roll Ranch Vineyard Red 91
2006 Ojai Syrah Thompson Vineyard Red 92+

2007 Ojai Grenache Thompson Vineyard (USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County) $34
Stony and lean, the 2007 Ojai Grenache Thompson Vineyard has spicy, mineral laced aromatics with black cherries, licorice, earth and some fresh cut flowers and herbs rounding out the bouquet. The palate is medium bodied with a firm, deft texture, lots of edgy acidity, just enough fruit and a medium length finish. I want more fruit, but if you think every central coast Grenache is over the top, give this a try. (87 pts.)

2006 Ojai Syrah Melville Vineyard (USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills – Sta. Rita Hills) $44
One of the larger scaled Ojai Syrahs, the 2006 Ojai Syrah Melville Vineyard exhibits a deep, viscous purple color as well as decadent cassis and blackberry fruit, graphite, raw meat, smoke and copious mineral and crushed stone aromatics. There‟s fantastic verve and energy to the wine and the medium to full bodied palate shows decadent, perfectly ripe fruit, moderate acidity, a superb texture and a long, structured finish. I think this will be a long live wine; and given how it‟s showing now, it should also be accessible for most of it. Drink over the next 12 to 15 years. (93 pts.)

2006 Ojai Syrah Presidio Vineyard (USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County) $NA
From a cool, sandy vineyard lying west of the Santa Rita Hills appellation, the 2006 Ojai Syrah Presidio Vineyard is a unique, character filled Syrah that smells of barely cooked Steak au poivre. There‟s fantastic complexity and the copious aged beef and freshly cracked pepper aromas are supported by vivid dark fruits, minerals, herbs and flowers. It doesn‟t lose a beat on the palate and possesses a medium to full bodied texture with firm, concentrated fruit, edgy acidity, and a long, clean finish. This showed best on the first night but closed down noticeably on the second day, showing more acid, structure and tannin. While the level of acid and tannin gives me pause, I still think this will be particularly long lived. I‟d recommend holding for 3 to 5 years and then drinking over the following 10 to 12. (94 Pts.)

2006 Ojai Syrah Roll Ranch Vineyard (USA, California, Central Coast) $44
A touch more expressive than a previous bottle and worthy of another review, the 2006 Ojai Syrah Roll Ranch Vineyard is an vibrant, edgy and medium weight Syrah that exhibits dark fruits, dusty earth, smoked meats and mineral aromatics. On the palate, the wine is medium bodied with fresh acidity, moderately concentrated fruit, firm structure and a long, classy finish where the tannin and structure are center stage. I love the precision and cut here but over the long haul, there might be more tannin and acid than fruit. I‟m leaning towards recommending drinking over the next 8 to 10 years but if the fruit holds, this could go even longer. (91 pts.)

2006 Ojai Syrah Thompson Vineyard (USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County) $38
A beautiful and perfectly balanced Syrah, the 2006 Ojai Syrah Thompson Vineyard has perfumed aromatics of spiced blackberries, smoked meats, tar and a touch of fresh cut flowers. The wine picks up a chocolaty note with air and shows impressive purity, complexity and depth. On the palate, it‟s medium bodied and possesses concentrated fruit, a silky, smooth texture, lively acidity and a long, quality finish. Given the balance and overall harmony, this should age gracefully over the next 10 to 12 years. (92+ pts.)