Reviews by Antonio Galloni of VINOUS
July, 2024
The Ojai Vineyard
Adam Tolmach continues to turn out gorgeous wines that speak to the true reflection of place. The 2023 vintage plays to his strengths when it comes to the whites, which are some of the best I have tasted here in at least a few years. Readers will find plenty of highlights among this year’s releases. The 2021 Syrahs are especially compelling, as are the small-lot Special {Bottlings]. For those who want to understand the essence of classicism in Santa Barbara, Ojai is a great place to start.
From Santa Barbara: California’s Undiscovered Jewel (Aug 2024) by Antonio Galloni
The 2021 Syrah Duvarita is another stellar wine in this range from Adam Tolmach. Bright, punchy and explosive, the 2021 has so much going on. The Duvarita was done with fully destemmed fruit, but then again, this cool site confers plenty of savoriness on its own. I especially admire the translucent energy here. 95 Points
The 2019 Syrah Henry Daniel is a blend of lots that sees additional time in barrel. Vineyard sites are Duvarita, John Sebastiano and Bien Nacido—about a third of each. It’s a terrific choice for readers who want to explore the Ojai style in a wine with a bit of bottle age. Hints of leather, mocha, incense and spice meld into the unctuous finish. 94 Points
2021 Syrah Special Bottling – Solomon Hills
The 2021 Syrah Solomon Hills Special Bottling is a tiny run of just 61 cases. Deep, pliant and wonderfully resonant, the 2021 possesses tremendous depth and nuance to match. Lavendar, menthol, black cherry and plum all build as the unctuous, beautifully persistent Syrah shows off its irrepressible charm. 94 Points
The 2021 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard, from the famed Z-block, is a classy, polished wine. Dried flowers, lavender, mint, spice, tobacco and black cherry are all beautifully delineated. This mid-weight, savory Syrah delivers the goods, big time. What a gorgeous wine it is. 94 Points
The 2022 Riesling Kick on Ranch is superb. Rich and dynamic, with real textural breadth, it immediately captivates. The 2022 was done bone dry, but it possesses notable fruit richness, aided by considerable botrytis. Orange confit, apricot, spice, mint, butter, exotic white flowers and lightly honeyed overtones all build effortlessly. About half the wine sees overnight skin contact, which helps build creaminess. 94 Points
2021 Pinot Noir Special Bottling – Fe Ciega
The [2021] Pinot Noir Fe Ciega Special Bottling is a blend of two of the best barrels in the cellar. Crushed flowers, herbs, mint, cedar and sweet pipe tobacco all grace this layered, nuanced red. The blend works so well here. This earthy, savory Pinot Noir has so much to offer. 93+ points
2022 Chardonnay Special Bottling – Puerta Del Mar
The 2022 Chardonnay Special Bottling Puerta del Mar is brisk, airy and nuanced. Crushed flowers, white pepper, mint, crushed rocks and slate confer notable freshness. This is an especially effusive wine. Elevage is 16 months in barrel with no racking—an approach that mellows the primary fruit but also lends notable complexity. This is a fine showing from Adam Tolmach and Ojai. 93 Points
2022 Pinot Noir – Kessler-Haak
A wine of stature, the 2022 Pinot Noir Kessler-Haak Vineyard possesses notable presence. Dark cherry, plum, licorice, incense, leather, tobacco and menthol are all packed into the wine’s sturdy yet mid-weight frame. Incise tannins need time to soften. Whole cluster inclusion is 28%. 93 Points
The 2021 Syrah Roll Ranch is a bit more extroverted than the other Ojai Syrahs. It offers a beguiling mix of intense dark blue/purplish fruit intermingled with strong savory, floral and earthy notes. Theis exotic, layered Syrah exudes balance and class. 93 Points
The 2021 Syrah Kessler-Haak Vineyard is a classic Ojai wine. It offers gorgeous floral and savory aromatics and vibrant fruit. Beautifully textured and super-expressive, the 2021 is a total delight. Its balance alone is so compelling. Hints of orange peel and leather inform the sustained finish. The 100% whole clusters are nicely integrated. 93 Points
The 2023 Chardonnay Clima Frío is fabulous. Rich, creamy and expansive, the 2023 offers striking depth for an appellation-level wine. Apricot, tangerine peel, hazelnut and lightly honeyed notes build into the deep, resonant finish. The Clima Frío is essentially the Santa Barbara County bottling with a new name. Vineyard sites are Rancho Ontiveros and Yellow Foxtrot. 93 Points
2022 Estate Red – Paseante Noir
The 2022 Paseante Noir is a very good wine. Blackberry, licorice, tobacco, cedar, dried herbs and menthol confer brooding intensity. Potent tannins reinforce that impression. The is a powerhouse vintage for the Paseante Noir. 93 Points
2023 Estate White – Ambulo Blanc/Caminante Blanc
The 2023 White Estate is laced with white orchard fruit, mint, crushed rocks, white pepper and slate. This chiseled, sculpted white is a absolute delight. Clean saline underpinnings extend the finish nicely. 93 Points
The 2023 Vermentino Camp Four Vineyard is another gorgeous white in this range from Ojai. Bright, dynamic and vibrant, the 2023 is wonderfully deep and expressive right out of the gate. Lemon peel, almond, white flowers and spice abound. This is classic Vermentino, with a kiss of California sunshine. 93 Points
2022 Pinot Noir – Fe Ciega Discípulo
The 2022 Pinot Noir Fe Ciega Discípulo is a very pretty, lifted wine with lovely aromatics, crunchy red fruits and mid-weight structure that wrpas it all together. Bright acids punctuation the finish. The 33% stems are nicely balanced. 92 Points
The 2023 Viognier Brick Barn Vineyard is a gorgeous, distinctive white that marries varietal character with textural richness. White peach, jasmine, mint and white pepper open first, framed by slightly phenolic contours that add persistence through to the finish. 92 Points
2023 Sauvignon Blanc – Presqu’ile Vineyard
The 2023 Sauvignon Blanc Presqu’ile Vineyard shows the more exotic side of the variety. White flowers, passion fruit and mint all run through this textured, layered Sauvignon Blanc. All the elements are so well balanced. Long hang time in this cool site in a great vintage yielded a Sauvignon Blanc of notable pedigree. 92 Points
2023 Sauvignon Blanc – McGinley
The 2023 Sauginon Blanc McGinley is a taut and finely cut from start to finish. Bright acids and clean citrus notes slice through a core of citrus fruit, white flowers, mint and white pepper in this gorgeous Sauvignon Blanc from Adam Tolmach. 92 Points
2022 Pinot Noir – Fe Ciega Devoto
The 2022 Pinot Noir Fe Ciega Devoto is sourced from heritage clones on the property. Dark-toned fruit, leather, dried herbs, cedar, mint and spice add to an impression of darkness. This somber, introspective Pinot needs time, but I imagine it will always be rather brooding. 91 Points
The 2021 Syrah John Sebastiano Vineyard is a pretty tightly wound wine. Medium in body, with good aromatic presence and fine persistence, the 2021 is not fully expressive today, especially on the palate. This is an especially savory, earthy style, with fruit pushed into the background. It’s attractive but also a touch light in body. 91 Points
Just bottled, the 2023 Pinot Noir Clima Frío offers up hints of sweet red cherry, pipe tobacco, cedar, mint and dried flowers. This is an especially savory style that reflects the blend of fruit from Presqu’ile (a cool site—all destemmed) and Yellow Foxtrot. If this is the appellation wine, I cant wait to taste the vineyard designates. 91 Points
The 2022 Barbera Rich Vineyard is, once again, one of the most distinctive wines in the range. Ripe black cherry, leather, tobacco, spice and incense are all pushed forward. This potent, strapping Barbera offers very good depth and tons of varietal character to match. Bright acids buffer the finish nicely. 91 Points
2022 Syrah – Santa Barbara County
The 2022 Syrah (Santa Barbara County) packs quite the punch. A blast of dark cherry, plum, leather, incense, cured meat, licorice and dried herbs races across the palate. This sturdy appellation-level Syrah has a ton to offer. The 2022 might not quite have the charm of the best years, but it is very nicely done. I find it a bit richer than usual. 90 Points
The 2023 Rosé is elegant, gracious and wonderfully lifted. This is a fine vintage for the Ojai Rosé; it’s aromatic and nuanced, with an intriguing combination of freshness and textural depth. The blend is mostly Grenache and some Carignan, an approach that works so well here. 90 Points
