FALL 2006
Among high-quality wine producers
there seem to be two general camps, those who make vineyard-specific
wines and those who blend a variety of vineyard sources. Those who
blend argue that the only way to make a complex wine is to mix several
vineyard components together--in essence that the sum is greater than
its individual parts. I do not deny that the idea is appealing; however,
as you will see from this newsletter, I am not of that persuasion.
What drives me is the amazing distinctiveness a carefully farmed vineyard
can express when its grapes become wine. I was first struck by this
back in 1988 when I made two pinot noirs from vineyards that were
literally across the street from each other in the Santa Maria Valley,
Bien Nacido and Rancho Vinedo. While the grapes were treated similarly,
the resultant wines were quite different. It was thrilling to taste
what seemed to me the spirit of those two particular spots.
Assuming variety is the spice of life, blended perfection strikes
me as sort of boring. This world already offers enough blended beverages
designed to appeal to the widest audience--quirky and individual wines
are simply more interesting.
Here at the winery, dealing with so many vineyards and keeping the
resulting wines separate can be chaotic: however, every tasting becomes
a tour of the unique characteristics a particular site delivers in
flavors and aromatics. And because there is so much happening vineyardwise
in Santa Barbara County, we'll continue to introduce new wines to
you in the next few years-while letting a few old friends go. I remain
restless in the hunt for special vineyards. The search for the great
vineyard site and the quest to best express its individuality in wine
remain a lifelong pursuit.
Adam
Tolmach