FALL 2005
Many winemakers in California are now picking their grapes extremely ripe and making what I see as ponderously alcoholic, prune-y flavored wines. The aim is apparently to make wines that give a huge impression in the first sip without regard to the actual drink-ability of the wine. Wine should be so savory that it beckons you to take another taste, so to me these overwrought wines seem preposterous.
This trend is reminiscent of what happened in the late 70's when zinfandel was very popular. Zin had been know for years as an obscure varietal that wasn't one of the classics, but it became fashionable as an intriguingly fruity, "nativist" revival grape. To counter the charge that zin was just a simple fruity wine, winemakers picked riper and riper fruit to make a more "claret" styled wine. These riper wines lost all the zest and vibrancy that was zinfandel's strength, and became awkwardly alcoholic and tedious to drink. Consumers revolted against this new undrinkable style, and zinfandel sales went into a tailspin for years.
With the beneficent climate we have here, I have always understood the logic of picking ripe grapes. In Europe often the best vintages are the ripest, so why not try to duplicate the style, if not the flavors, of the greatest vintages? The question is really how ripe is too ripe? Ten and fifteen years ago I was considered one of those that picked late, but now, I'm often one of the first to pick. What has changed is the whole concept of what wine is supposed to be.
There is a whole new breed of winemakers--raisin pickers. To simplify, they are of two schools: Those that are following a trend and are seeking reviewers' high scores, and those truly committed to the international style. The first group are content to pick near raisins from often poorly farmed vineyards. The second group, who often insist on carefully tended grapes, are so concerned with green herbal flavors and tannins that they are willing to forgo liveliness of flavors and distinctiveness of terroir for the international style of huge, seamlessly smooth wines that are impressive, but possess few distinguishing characteristics. What is the fun of having wines from Italy, Spain, Chile and California all tasting the same?
People say the international style has infected Bordeaux as well, and I'm sure it is true to some degree, but what I have tasted recently from the 2000 vintage impressed with its distinctiveness and style. More like a typical California vintage, 2000 produced fully ripe grapes of modest acidity in Bordeaux. While I am not much a fan of the cabernet family of grapes, I was floored by the overall quality for the price ($20-$70 range). Surely these wines are a great lesson in balance. For my California palate the appeal is the upfront richness and concentration of fruit, and the amazing intensity of character which was wonderfully balanced with acidity and tannin, making the wines age-worthy yet drinkable.
Some say that the times are changing, and modern wine drinkers are looking for that very occasional glass of wine to have as a cocktail substitute. That's fine; however, for me, wine and food will be forever married, so I will continue to strive to make wines that can be enjoyed beyond the first sip, and whose personalities are revealed with food.
Adam Tolmach