FALL 2005
Many winemakers
in California are now picking their grapes extremely ripe and making
what I see as ponderously alcoholic, prune-y flavored wines. The aim
is apparently to make wines that give a huge impression in the first
sip without regard to the actual drink-ability of the wine. Wine should
be so savory that it beckons you to take another taste, so to me these
overwrought wines seem preposterous.
This trend is reminiscent of
what happened in the late 70's when zinfandel was very popular. Zin
had been know for years as an obscure varietal that wasn't one of
the classics, but it became fashionable as an intriguingly fruity,
"nativist" revival grape. To counter the charge that zin
was just a simple fruity wine, winemakers picked riper and riper fruit
to make a more "claret" styled wine. These riper wines lost
all the zest and vibrancy that was zinfandel's strength, and became
awkwardly alcoholic and tedious to drink. Consumers revolted against
this new undrinkable style, and zinfandel sales went into a tailspin
for years.
With the beneficent climate
we have here, I have always understood the logic of picking ripe grapes.
In Europe often the best vintages are the ripest, so why not try to
duplicate the style, if not the flavors, of the greatest vintages?
The question is really how ripe is too ripe? Ten and fifteen years
ago I was considered one of those that picked late, but now, I'm often
one of the first to pick. What has changed is the whole concept of
what wine is supposed to be.
There is a whole new breed
of winemakers--raisin pickers. To simplify, they are of two schools:
Those that are following a trend and are seeking reviewers' high scores,
and those truly committed to the international style. The first group
are content to pick near raisins from often poorly farmed vineyards.
The second group, who often insist on carefully tended grapes, are
so concerned with green herbal flavors and tannins that they are willing
to forgo liveliness of flavors and distinctiveness of terroir for
the international style of huge, seamlessly smooth wines that are
impressive, but possess few distinguishing characteristics. What is
the fun of having wines from Italy, Spain, Chile and California all
tasting the same?
People say the international
style has infected Bordeaux as well, and I'm sure it is true to some
degree, but what I have tasted recently from the 2000 vintage impressed
with its distinctiveness and style. More like a typical California
vintage, 2000 produced fully ripe grapes of modest acidity in Bordeaux.
While I am not much a fan of the cabernet family of grapes, I was
floored by the overall quality for the price ($20-$70 range). Surely
these wines are a great lesson in balance. For my California palate
the appeal is the upfront richness and concentration of fruit, and
the amazing intensity of character which was wonderfully balanced
with acidity and tannin, making the wines age-worthy yet drinkable.
Some say that the times are
changing, and modern wine drinkers are looking for that very occasional
glass of wine to have as a cocktail substitute. That's fine; however,
for me, wine and food will be forever married, so I will continue
to strive to make wines that can be enjoyed beyond the first sip,
and whose personalities are revealed with food.