I don't know why,
but every year I think of a new reason why this wine shouldn't
work out, yet every time it exceeds my expectations. One
year I think the wine is too tannic, the next I am sure
it is too fruity. But there is something special about
this vineyard that makes for a wonderful wine every year.
In 1999, then, I was doubly suspicious because every barrel
of Roll tasted really special right from the start.
Ojai is warm, and
in every other vintage the grapes at Roll Ranch have gone
from veraison (the time when the grapes turn from green
to purple) to full ripeness quickly. But the cool summer
of 1999 was different and allowed these grapes to ripen
more slowly, and that longer time on the vine enabled
the grapes to ripen evenly and the color and flavors to
concentrate. This, in essence, is why I think the 1999
tasted great from the start. Everything was in harmonious
balance.
Aromatically, the
1999 is floral and full of plum and apricot, and the flavors
are juicy and intense. This is certainly the biggest Roll
Ranch since the monster 1996. It has finely delineated
tannins that are well integrated into the structure of
the wine, which makes it accessible and easy to enjoy
today--yet the wine possesses incredible power and length
that argue for further aging. This one is sure to be a
crowd pleaser.