2007 CHARDONNAY BIEN
NACIDO
Santa Maria Valley
I've been amused seeing the development in California of what
is called un-oaked chardonnay. It's a natural reaction to the
lavishly oaked, cloyingly rich chardonnays from Napa. How winemakers
got so far off track producing ever oakier, more ponderous wines-while
thinking they were making the ultimate expression of chardonnay--is
beyond me. Though I have my quibbles about the results of fermenting
and aging in tanks, some special wines are made that way, and
it is surely is a step in the right direction. What the un-oaked
advocates have right is that too much new oak destroys what is
distinctive about chardonnay.
Where I diverge from tank-fermenting advocates is in my love of
what fermenting and aging in older barrels can bring out in wine.
Some oxidation takes place, allowing the flavors to mature and
giving richness to an otherwise lean structure. Chardonnay fermented
in tank can be successful if the fruit is particularly expressive,
but my favorite examples are almost always aged in older wood.
For years we produced our Bien Nacido chardonnay by fermenting
and aging it in oak barrels, one third of them new. While that
gave the wine a rich toasty character, we found that the new oak
made it heavier and less friendly with food--and dominated over
the considerable charms that the vineyard possessed. Since 2000,
our Bien Nacido has been our argument in favor of using only older
barrels in the production of chardonnay. At first, some people
couldn't understand what was so great about a wine with some restraint,
but these days people are embracing the idea that wine is not
a meal in itself but a beautiful synergistic accompaniment to
food.
In 2007 the vines were drought stressed and yielded a very small
crop, giving us a wine that is expressive and flavorful. While
its youthful acidity stands out at the moment, this wine is already
a great match with rich flavored foods.
Press Reviews
Robert Parkers Wine Advocate
"The 2007 Chardonnay Bien Nacido, which reveals a slight greenish hue to its straw color, offers smoky, earthy, orange blossom, and lemon oil notes. Full-bodied with good acidity." - RP (90 Points)
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Nov/Dec 08
"Bright gold color. Deep, pungent aromas of pear, nectarine, yellow rose and fresh herbs, with slow-building minerality. Chewy, tightly wound orchard and pit fruit flavors slowly unfold with air, picking up baking spices and honeysuckle. Continues to open through the long, juicy finish. I'll bet that this will be even better in a year or two. " - JR (90+ Points)
Nov/Dec 09
"Yellow-gold. Deep, musky aromas of pear, orange and smoky lees, with an undertone of dusty minerals. Weighty and round, with palate-saturating citrus and orchard fruit flavors and chewy texture. Becomes sweeter with air and finishes with lingering melon and mineral qualities. This is drinking very well right now. " - JR (91 Points)
High Resolution Bottle Shot