2005 SYRAH PRESIDIO
Santa Barbara County
This is our first wine
from Doug Braun's lovingly farmed Presidio Vineyard. Doug has
been making wine for years, and recently found this property west
of the Santa Rita Hills appellation and planted it with organic
and biodynamic growing in mind from the start. His first crop
was in 2004.
I find his vineyard compelling for a few reasons. First and formost
is the cool climate. The lack of heat preserves the distinct character
of the grapes--their struggle to ripen at this windy site is essential
for their unique personality. The vineyard is situated in a great
spot on a gentle southerly slope, and the vines are planted close
together in very poor sandy soil. Doug's commitment to organic
and biodynamic farming has been great for grape quality because
succussfully farming without the usual chemicals requires a special
attentiveness to the needs of the vine, which has a direct bearing
on what sort of quality the vines will produce. Although it's
difficult to quantify all the differences between conventionally
grown and biodynamically farmed fruit, perceptive growers I talk
with think there are clear advantages to the natural approach.
The wine we made was immediately a standout in the cellar. It
bears the mark of being grown in a particularly cool spot by its
spectacular aroma of bright berry fruits and peppery herbal earthiness.
There is a density and sexy, musky vineyard personality that is
hidden by its freshness, but it will become apparent with age.
Immediately after bottling in March of 2007 the wine closed down
and hid most of its promise. However, now, a year and a half later
it is beginning to show its stuff. With a good decanting it is
perfect with savory dishes, though it still has years to go before
it peaks.