2002 SYRAH STOLPMAN
Santa
Barbara County
The Stolpman syrah is a
terroir (no more jokes; it is too depressing now!) driven wine.
The vineyard is planted on fractured shale, and the topsoil is
very thin. I think the wine's uniqueness is directly derived from
the vines' difficult growing conditions. At its core, it has a
mineral and tannic structure that is intriguing and pleasing to
the palate. Usually I recommend holding the Stolpman for several
years before drinking because its charms are not easily recognized
when young. So it was a big surprise for me to taste the 2002
recently and find it so utterly seductive. The aroma, which is
usually so reticent when young, is explosive. And the mineral
character that so distinguishes the flavor is very evident--yet
it does not interfere with the immediate pleasure this wine gives.
One certainly has much to gain from cellaring this wine for several
years; however, with a decanting, it is thoroughly enjoyable to
drink today.