Melville is located in
the coolest part of the Santa Ynez Valley of Santa Barbara County
in a new appellation called Santa Rita Hills. This up-and-coming
property, already famous for chardonnay and pinot noir, also has
syrah. When the vineyard was planted, all of the latest techniques
were used-- 3 by 8 foot spacing, vertical upright trellis with
catch wires, the right clones and rootstocks. The father and son
team of Ron and Chad Melville is a delight to work with. They
take the attitude that no problem is too difficult to solve and
are focused on producing the best grapes possible.
Growing syrah in this cool
climate is a challenge, and, even with severe thinning, each year
the grapes do not fully ripen until early to mid November. What
we get is a very cool-climate syrah, a bit like Bien Nacido, only
more distinctive. The close planting gives a more intensely flavored
wine that is darker, and the spiciness inherent in cool climate
syrah is more pronounced.
This wine is really only
for the lunatic fringe who get into things like Cote Rotie. I
think that’s why I like it so much! It is very hard to describe
the herbal, spirit-y, peppery quality, and the way it is juxtaposed
with the super intense berry fruit and zingy acidity. The wine
is fascinating--definitely something to put away for a few years.
For tasting today, it is best to open this wine a couple of hours
before drinking to allow it to breathe. The way the wine is showing
now, it might knock you out of your chair, it is so wild! Even
the most jaded palates wake up to this one!